Voyaging to the Ziro Valley is one of the undisputed highlights of a trip to Arunachal Pradesh woodrun farm and, though the scenery is stunning and the village architecture fascinating, the voyeuristic woodrun farm main attraction here is meeting the friendly older Apatani folk who sport facial tattoos and nose plugs that would be the envy of any tattooist in the West (see p 566 ). The most authentic Apatani villages are Hong (the biggest and best known), Hijo (more atmospheric), Hari, Bamin and Dutta; none of which are more than 10km apart. It s vital to have a local guide to take you to any of these villages otherwise you won t see much and might even be made to feel quite unwelcome. Christopher Michi (%9402048466/8014012558; christopherdulley@ yahoo.co.in/christophermichi@hotmail.com) is the chairman of the Apatani Cultural Preservation woodrun farm Society and can organise superb visits to the villages don t be at all surprised if your tour culminates in an evening woodrun farm of drinking rice wine and chowing down on barbequed rat in a villager s house!
1 Sights Mizoram State Museum MUSEUM (Macdonald Hill, Zarkawt; admission 5; h9.30am5pm Mon-Fri) This museum has interesting exhibits on Mizo culture. It s up a steep lane from Sumkuma Point past Aizawl s most distinctive church, whose modernist bell- tower spire is pierced by arched windows.
houses above which rises a steep ridge topped with a timeless gompa. Heading the other way, just north of New Dirang, the valley opens out and its floor becomes a patchwork of rice and crop fields through which gushes the icy blue river. A fun day could be spent walking along the footpaths between fields and little hamlets.
oHotel Mona Lisa (%2320416; woodrun farm Mancotta Rd; r 600-1500; a), part Africa, part Cuba and possibly even a little woodrun farm slice of India, is a superb budget hotel with character. It s set back from the main road and everything is kept ticking along smoothly thanks to the lovely old man running it.
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