silent river run deep Doe-Gu-Khill Guest House (%223232; r from 700), just below the large monastery, providing fabulous v

This historic Angami-Naga village silent river run deep was the site of two major British Angami siege battles in 1847 and 1879. Built on an easily defended ridge (very necessary back in headhunting days), Khonoma looks beautifully traditional.

Built since 1972, Arunachal s pleasantly silent river run deep green, tailor-made capital is named for the mysterious Ita Fort whose residual brick ruins crown a hilltop silent river run deep above town. There s a stack of ATMs in Mahatma Gandhi Marg, along with several silent river run deep internet silent river run deep cafes.

Just beyond, a left turning passes the Golaghar silent river run deep or Ahom ammunition store, the stonework of which is held together with a mix of dhal, lime and egg. Beyond are the two-storey ruins of Talatalghar (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; hdawn-dusk), the extensive, two-storey Ahom palace built by Ahom King Rajeswar Singha in the mid-18th century.

Doe-Gu-Khill Guest House (%223232; r from 700), just below the large monastery, providing fabulous views. The Hotel Tsepal Yangjom (%223473; www.hoteltsepalyangjom.co.in; s/d from 800/1200) in the market area is probably the town s most popular hotel. Its wood-panelled rooms have a vague Scandinavian feel and it has a generator to cope with the frequent blackouts.