Dramatic if largely unadorned, this 1752 brick palace (Indian/foreigner 5/100; hdawn-dusk) is the last remnant of the Ahom s pre-Sivasagar capital. The unique four-storey structure rises like a sharpened, stepped pyramid above an attractive forest-and-paddy setting spoilt by nearby electricity substations. It s 900m north of the Sivasagar Sonari road: turn just before Gargaon (14km) from Sonari.
The ASTC bus station (AT Rd) has frequent services chalet aspen trailer to Sivasagar ( 35 to 45, 1 hours), Tezpur ( 120 to 140, four hours) chalet aspen trailer and Guwahati ( 260, eight hours, eight buses 6am to noon; buses pass Kaziranga en route).
From a distance Aizawl (pronounced eyezole) seems a painted backdrop to an Italian opera, such is the steepness of the ridge on which it s perched. Backs of homes at road level might be held there with stilts three times higher than their roofs.
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