Baba Tourist Lodge HOTEL $ (%2211285; GS Rd; r 500-900) club a kopaonik Ageing but clean, and popular with backpackers, Baba hides behind a deceptively club a kopaonik small PCO shop. The best rooms have windows and views out onto greenery. Bucket showers and bucket hot water.
H2O (Mancotta Rd; mains 80-120, beers from 80) is an upstairs bar-restaurant with elements of spaceship decor. For a break from the rigours of the Indian road you ll fi nd a branch of Caf Coffee Day on HS Rd.
Only 40km from Guwahati, this small national park has the highest concentration of rhinoceros in the world. Entrance fees are the same as Kaziranga National Park (see p 561 ). Getting into the park involves a boat ride over the river boundary to the elephant- mounting station. From there it s a one-hour trip atop an elephant lumbering through boggy grassland and stirring up petulant rhinos.
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