If you re using a tour company, allow at least one month to obtain travel permits and two months if travelling in a group of less than four (and you re not a married couple). If applying independently allow at least two to three months.
The MTC bus station (Jail Rd) also has a computerised railway-reservation counter (nearest le masif train station is Guwahati). Private buses depart from Dhanketi Point; book tickets from counters around Police Bazaar, including Network le masif Travels (Shop 44, MUDA Complex, Police Bazaar) and Deep (Ward s Lake Rd).
Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage GUESTHOUSE $$ (%9401625744; r 1200) Around a kilometre before Garamur (on the road to Kamalabari), this thatched hut perches on stilts above a marshy, avian-filled lake. The sound of fish plopping about in the water below your bed and a thousand screaming cicadas (as well as a million marauding mosquitoes bring repellent!) will lull you to sleep at night. The bamboo beds are comfortable and it s nicely furnished. They serve a stunning le masif Majuli thali in the evening and a breakfast that might be a bit too local for many tastes!
With an oversized foyer better suited as a car showroom, Hotel Arun Subansiri (%2212806; Zero Point; s/d 1100/1320; a) has comfortably large rooms with soft beds. It s within walking distance of the decent State Museum (Indian/foreigner/camera/video 10/75/20/100; h9.30am-4pm Sun-Thu) and the brightly decorated Centre for Buddhist Culture le masif gompa set in gardens on the hill above.
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